What you need to know before you get a pet rat.
Getting any animal is a big decision, and it is always wise to do research before getting pets so that you can have a realistic set of expectations and you know how to meet your pets’ basic needs. I find myself expressing the term “Just loving an animal is not enough” very often, it is unfair to keep any animal if you are unable to at least meet their basic needs regarding, love, care, maintenance and finances. So here are some general needs that your future pet rat has for you to consider.
Friends
This is on top as I would argue that it is one of the most important points. That said most of these points are very important. YOU SHOULD NOT ONLY HAVE ONE RAT. There are very special circumstances that permit only having one rat, and “I only want one”, or “I only had one in the past and it was fine” are not good enough reasons. I am clearly very passionate about this and I am about to explain why.
All evidence shows that rats are very social animals, this includes scientific evidence. They communicate with each other, they groom each other, they cuddle each other and they form very strong bonds with each other. They have even been shown to have empathy for their cage mates. Rat that are deprived of cage mates have actually been found to have altered behaviors and habits and they can develop social anxieties and become possessive of their space. This makes it very difficult to pair them up with other rats at a later stage. I myself have observed naturally anxious rats (which are socialized well) calming down a lot after being incorporated into a larger mischief.
Rats are able to form strong bonds with their human owners, but humans are unable to fulfill simple rat social needs. A simple example is that we cannot even hear most of their chatting aside from the odd squeak or grunt as it is ultrasonic (i.e. it is at a frequency higher then what the human ear can detect). So even if your rat has to be a lone rat, it is best to keep them in a room with other rats so that they have someone to “chat” to.
A Suitable Cage
Rats need a suitable cage. They do enjoy free roaming, and that is important, but rats, especially as they age, tend to become very attached to their cage. This is their place of comfort and safety and is therefore a necessity. A rats cage cannot be too big, but it can certainly be too small. Rats require approximately 0,5 cubic meters per rat within their cage. Click here to use a helpful cage calculator.
you can also increase the surface area of your cage by adding platforms and hanging bedding such as hammocks. Generally, the more that you have going in your cage for your rats to explore and to mentally stimulate themselves, the better. Glass tanks are also not suitable for rats, and can cause respiratory illnesses, but rats also like to climb their cages. So a tall, well ventilated, “climbable” cage within the correct size guidelines is always best. If you are getting baby rats, make sure that the bar spacing is not large enough for them to climb through (because they will do that). The bar spacing for babies should not exceed 1.5 cm, but can go up to 2,5 cm for adult rats.
A Good Diet
It is important to make sure that your rats are on a good diet. They have already got a short lifespan and are prone to illness, so you don’t want their diet to exacerbate these problems. Rats are omnivores (i.e. Like us, they can eat a mixture of plant and meat produce). They also tend to get bored if they are eating the same thing every day. So it is best to make or buy a dry mix that is both exciting and meets their nutritional needs. Be careful of commercial mixes as they are often not sufficient or high in fats. There are ratteries and rescues that make great dry mixes especially for rats in South Africa which are worth trying. Dry food should also be substituted with fresh produce at least three times per week. The general rules of thumb are:
Your dried mix should be made up of the following proportions: 60% Grains; 10% Legumes, 10% Protein, 10% Herbs and Seeds and 10% dried fruits an vegetables.
Limit sugar. This includes too much fruit, most breakfast cereals or foods with hidden sugars.
Limit fatty foods, including peanuts and sunflower seeds, though these are ok in moderate amounts, too much can lead to obesity.
Rats above approximately 5 months old should not have a high protein diet, high protein foods (such as meat and egg) should be limited to about once per week.
Males should not have citrus fruits as it can lead to urinary issues.
Feeding the rats is not too expensive, and they can get approximately 15 g of dry mix per rat, per day in addition to vegetables and other foods depending on their size. Be careful not to over feed your rats, especially food motivated rats. Rats that are subjected to high fat or high sugar diets, especially in large amounts have been found to over eat and become subject to obesity and related illness.
An Exotics Vet
Fancy rats are classified as exotic species and require an exotics vet for when they fall ill. If you are considering getting a rat make sure that you are familiar with where your exotics vet is located, in case of an emergency. Rats are prone to illnesses such as respiratory problems and tumors, so it is always a good idea to have money saved for unexpected vet bills. The vet should be considered part of care for any animal, and should therefore be taken into consideration when budgeting for your pet. Unfortunately, exotics vets are often more expensive then your average vet, so take that into consideration as well.
Attention
Rats are not the type of pet that you can leave in a cage indefinitely (to clarify, there are few pets that should be left alone), they need at least an hour of “free time” and attention from you every single day. They are social, curious creatures that love getting attention. It is best to have an area set aside for them to roam each day, whether it is a room or an area demarcated within a room. There are many tricks and interactive activities that are widely available online for them to do in their free time. Or you can let them explore while enjoying their company.
Cleaning
Rats can smell bad, there are, however, ways to keep on top of the smell and minimize it. Firstly, and most importantly, their cage needs to be cleaned regularly. On average it should be cleaned at least once a week, with spot cleans every second day and a deep clean at least once per month. Aside from the pungent odor from a cage that is left unclean, the rats’ urine can cause respiratory illnesses and thus it is essential to clean the rats’ cage regularly. Realistically, rats will have an odour, even if it is faint, regardless of how often they are cleaned. This is especially true with male rats. So if you are not prepared for the scent, rats may not be the best pet for you.
A great combination for cleaning (in South Africa) is F10 SC, or another disinfectant which is confirmed to be safe to use by your exotics vet, and white vinegar. Vinegar is great at removing odors, and the disinfectant, well, it disinfects. I also add dish washing liquid to my cleaning bucket, just go give it that extra shine for piece of mind.
All rat bedding should get changed and washed weekly. You can use a little washing powder (just monitor that your rats are not allergic to it), in combination with F10 SC and add vinegar to the rinse cycle. I usually prefer to hang the bedding in the sun if I can afterwards.
For general cleaning in areas that the rats explore or where their cage is situated, it is best to avoid using aerosols or strong/ scented chemicals, as they can cause or exacerbate or cause respiratory illnesses.
Mites
Mites commonly occur in fancy rats. Rats can pick them up from petshops, other infected rats or untreated bedding (such as wood shavings). There are many different types of mites that often only make their presence known once the infestation is extensive and uncomfortable for the rat. Common things to look out for are scabs (especially at the nape of the neck which are easier to feel), bald spots, Cauliflower or scabbed ears or scabs in eyes or tail and excessive scratching. Don’t expect to see bugs crawling on their skin as mites are microscopic and cannot be seen with the naked eye. Luckily mites are easy to treat with a drop of serum with the active ingredient: Ivermectin. In South Africa, its easiest to get kitten or cat revolution and put a tiny drop at the nape of their neck, or you can use Ivomec if you have a larger mischief. Treat bad mite cases twice, two weeks apart, otherwise a maintenance treatment every 3–4 months should prevent outbreaks. F10 SC is also excellent at removing mites from the rats’ bedding and cage.
Conclusion
There are many things to take into consideration before getting rats. including the time that it takes to care for and maintain them and the money that needs to be put aside for an exotics vet in case your rats get sick. Make sure that you can care for yourself (financially and physically) before taking on any pet, as it is not fair to get any animal that is likely to be neglected. I must stress that rats make the most incredible pets and all the cleaning, treating and time is so well spent on these animals.
Disclaimer: All of the information provided is based on personal experiences with some scientific background. There are many tips and tricks available and I am always striving to learn more, and certainly don’t know it all. I do want to stress that BEFORE getting any pet, you should be responsible and do the necessary research and preparation to properly care for your new addition to the family.
